How To Make An Accordion Booklet: A Professional Bookbinding Guide

Creating an archival-quality accordion booklet requires careful attention to paper grain direction, precise mathematical scaling, and calibrated folding techniques. By utilizing heavy-weight bookmaking paper (ideally 120 to 220 GSM) and wrapping custom Davey board covers, you can build a structurally sound, self-standing concertina book. This technical guide delivers the exact measurements, material parameters, and professional bindery workflows required to execute a flawless accordion-fold structure.

Structural Design and Materialization: Prep Checklist

An accordion booklet, or concertina book, relies on a series of alternating mountain and valley folds. Because there is no stitched spine holding the leaves together, the structural integrity of the booklet is entirely dependent on the physical properties of the paper, the precision of the scores, and the balance of the cover weights.

Before beginning construction, you must determine the grain direction of your paper. Paper fibers align themselves parallel to the length of the paper machine during manufacturing. Folding parallel to this grain yields a clean, crisp fold because the paper fibers bend easily. Folding against the grain ruptures the cellulose fibers, causing unsightly cracking, uneven edges, and structural weakness along the spine.

Essential Gear, Materials, and Benchmarks

Professional-Grade Materials

• Inner Page Stock: 120 to 220 GSM acid-free printmaking, watercolor, or heavy drawing paper (e.g., Stonehenge, Arches, or heavy cardstock). The paper must be grain-long or grain-short relative to your cuts, ensuring all folds run parallel to the paper grain.
• Cover Boards: Two pieces of 2mm (80 pt) Davey board, Eska board, or heavy-duty bookbinder's chipboard.
• Cover Wrap: 80 to 120 GSM decorative paper, linen bookcloth, or Japanese Kozo paper.
• Adhesive: Lineco pH-neutral Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA) professional bookbinding glue or archival-grade double-sided tape (e.g., 3M 415 tape).

Precision Tools

• Creasing Tool: Genuine bone folder or Teflon folder (Teflon is preferred for delicate papers as it will not burnish or leave shiny marks on the stock).
• Cutting Tools: Heavy-duty aluminum or steel ruler with a non-slip cork backing, coupled with a professional utility knife or rotating rotary cutter.
• Measurement Tools: Self-healing cutting mat with grid lines, and a precision metal L-square for verifying 90-degree corners.
• Application Tools: Flat boar-bristle glue brush (1-inch width) and scrap waste paper for gluing workflows.

Project Estimates

• Estimated Budget: $15 to $40 depending on the quality of decorative papers and cover boards.
• Duration: 60 to 90 minutes of active assembly time, plus 12 hours of drying time under weight.
• Prerequisite Standard: Basic geometric measuring capabilities and a fundamental understanding of grain direction.

Step-by-Step Concertina Binding and Assembly Workflow

Step 1: Identify and Align the Paper Grain Direction

Before cutting your main paper strip, you must locate the paper grain. To find the grain, gently bend the paper sheet horizontally and then vertically. You will feel a slight resistance in one direction and a smooth, effortless bend in the other. The direction of least resistance is parallel to the grain.

Alternatively, if you are using high-end handmade papers, a wet test or tear test can be used on scrap pieces. Once identified, plan your layout so that every single fold of your accordion booklet runs parallel to this grain. If your folds run against the grain, the booklet will not stand upright cleanly, and the paper will crack at the hinges over time.

Step 2: Calculate Dimensions and Cut the Base Paper Strip

To build a balanced booklet, you must calculate your measurements with precision. For this workflow, we will design an accordion booklet with a finished page size of 5 inches wide by 7 inches tall, containing 6 structural panels.

Calculate the total length of the paper strip by multiplying the desired page width by the number of pages. For 6 pages of 5-inch width, the equation is:

$$\text{Total Strip Length} = 5 \text{ inches} \times 6 = 30 \text{ inches}$$

If your paper sheet is not 30 inches long, you must cut two shorter strips and join them. To join strips, add a 0.5-inch seam allowance (tab) to the end of one strip. Cut the height of your strip to exactly 7 inches. Use your metal L-square to ensure that all four corners of your strip are cut to a perfect 90-degree angle. Even a 0.5-millimeter deviation at this stage will cause the book to fold crookedly.

Step 3: Map and Score the Folds

Place your cut strip flat on the self-healing cutting mat. Align the top edge of the paper along a horizontal grid line. Using your steel ruler and a sharp pencil, make tiny tick marks along the top and bottom edges at exactly 5-inch intervals (5, 10, 15, 20, and 25 inches).

Place the steel ruler securely along the first set of marks. Hold the bone folder at a 45-degree angle to the paper. Drag the pointed end of the bone folder along the edge of the ruler with moderate, uniform pressure.

Pro-Tip: Do not cut through the paper. The goal of scoring is to compress the paper fibers along a clean, singular line, which guides the fold. Repeat this scoring process for all five mapped intervals.

Step 4: Execute the Accordion Folding Sequence

Once scored, the paper must be folded into alternating directions to create the concertina structure. The sequence alternates between a mountain fold (pointing upward like a ridge) and a valley fold (pointing downward like a trough).

1. Pick up the strip and fold the first score line into a mountain fold. Use your fingers to gently start the bend along the scored track.
2. Once aligned, lay the fold flat on your cutting mat and run the flat edge of your Teflon folder over the crease at a low angle to lock it. Always burnish away from the spine to prevent paper bunching.
3. Fold the second score line in the opposite direction to create a valley fold. Burnish the edge.
4. Repeat this alternating sequence (Mountain, Valley, Mountain, Valley, Mountain) until the entire strip is collapsed into a tight, flat stack.
5. Check the alignment. The top and bottom edges of all panels should align perfectly flush. If they drift, gently adjust the folds before the crease is fully locked down with the bone folder.

Step 5: Fabricate the Hardcover Boards

The covers of an accordion book shield the inner pages and provide the weight necessary to keep the book standing. The covers should be slightly larger than the folded page block to protect the paper edges from shelf wear. This margin is called the square.

For our 5-inch by 7-inch page size, calculate the cover dimensions by adding 0.125 inches (1/8 inch) to both the width and the height.

$$\text{Cover Board Width} = 5.0 \text{ inches} + 0.125 \text{ inches} = 5.125 \text{ inches}$$ $$\text{Cover Board Height} = 7.0 \text{ inches} + 0.125 \text{ inches} = 7.125 \text{ inches}$$

Cut two pieces of 2mm Davey board to these exact dimensions using a sharp utility knife. Use multiple light passes with the blade rather than attempting to cut through the heavy board in a single stroke. This ensures a clean, square edge without tearing the compressed board fibers.

Step 6: Wrap the Cover Boards

To wrap the boards in decorative paper or bookcloth, you must cut your wrap material to allow for a 0.75-inch turn-in margin on all four sides.

For a 5.125-inch by 7.125-inch board, the wrap material should measure exactly 6.625 inches by 8.625 inches.

1. Place the wrap paper face down on a clean sheet of waste paper.
2. Using a glue brush, apply a thin, uniform layer of pH-neutral PVA glue to the back of one Davey board. Work from the center outward to avoid pooling at the edges.
3. Carefully center the glued side of the board onto the back of the wrap paper. Press down firmly.
4. Flip the board over and use a clean bone folder to smooth out any air bubbles or wrinkles, working from the center outward.
5. Trim the corners of the wrap paper at a 45-degree angle using your ruler and knife. Leave a gap between the cut and the corner of the board equal to roughly twice the thickness of the board (approximately 4mm). This gap ensures the board corner is fully covered when folded.
6. Apply PVA glue to the top and bottom flaps of the wrap paper. Fold them tightly over the edges of the board and burnish down.
7. Use the tip of your bone folder to tuck in the tiny ears of paper at the corners.
8. Apply glue to the remaining side flaps, fold them over, and lock them down. Repeat this entire process for the second cover board. Place both wrapped covers under a heavy weight to dry flat.

Step 7: Mount the Book Block to the Covers

Once the wrapped covers are completely dry, you are ready to connect them to your folded page strip.

1. Lay your folded page strip flat. The first panel (the front face of the first page) and the last panel (the back face of the final page) will serve as the paste-downs that adhere directly to the inside covers.
2. Place a sheet of scrap paper underneath the first panel of your accordion strip to protect the rest of the book from glue squeeze-out.
3. Apply a thin, even layer of PVA glue to the outer surface of this first panel.
4. Carefully position one of your dry, wrapped cover boards over the glued panel. Ensure that the 0.0625-inch (1/16 inch) reveal margin is perfectly uniform on the top, bottom, and outer edges.

Warning: Double-check the orientation of your cover design if using patterned paper. Once the glue grabs, adjusting the alignment without tearing the paper is extremely difficult.

1. Press the cover firmly into place. Open the first fold and burnish the pasted-down sheet with your bone folder, ensuring a strong, bubble-free bond across the entire surface.
2. Repeat this process for the back cover, gluing it to the final panel of the accordion strip.
3. Collapse the booklet completely. Place the assembled book between two clean sheets of blotting paper, place a flat board on top, and weight it down with heavy books or a hand press. Leave the book to cure for a minimum of 12 hours. This curing phase prevents the damp boards from warping as the water in the PVA glue evaporates.

Technical Specifications: Paper Selection and Structural Scaling Matrix

To ensure your accordion booklet operates smoothly, match your paper weight to the intended size and page count of your book. The following matrix details the ideal specifications for various styles of accordion bookmaking.

Diagnosing Structural Flaws and Field Repairs

Scenario 1: Cracking and Fiber Rupture Along Fold Lines

• Root Cause: The paper strip was folded against the grain, or the paper was folded dry without receiving a proper score line. This breaks the cellulose bonds, exposing raw white fibers along colored paper paths.
• Actionable Fix: If fibers are fractured but still attached, paint a micro-thin layer of diluted archival PVA glue (80% glue, 20% water) along the exterior crease using a fine 00-detail brush. Press the crease firmly with a Teflon folder wrapped in Japanese tissue. This consolidates the loose fibers and stabilizes the joint.

Scenario 2: The Booklet Bows or Fails to Stand Flat

• Root Cause: The paper strip was pulled unevenly during the scoring process, or there is an accumulation of moisture on one side of the paper from wet adhesives, causing asymmetric tension.
• Actionable Fix: Place the booklet flat on a clean surface, open it completely, and lightly mist the reverse side of the bowed panels with distilled water using a fine-art atomizer. Close the booklet, sandwich it between sheets of dry watercolor blotting paper, and place it under a heavy bookbinding press for 24 hours. The balanced moisture redistribution will flatten the fibers.

Scenario 3: Cover Boards Warp Inward After Drying

• Root Cause: This is caused by unequal surface tension on the cover board. The wet wrap paper on the outside of the board shrinks as it dries, pulling the edges of the board inward because there is no balancing paper glued to the inside face of the board.
• Actionable Fix: Paste down a sheet of paper that matches the weight of your outer wrap to the inside of the cover board (the paste-down page of your book block naturally serves this purpose). Ensure the grain direction of this paste-down runs parallel to the cover board's grain. The opposing drying forces will pull the board flat.

Scenario 4: Cumulative Panel Drift (Steps Out of Square)

• Root Cause: Measuring each panel individually from the previous mark rather than measuring from a single, fixed "zero" index point. This amplifies even minor measuring errors across the length of the strip.
• Actionable Fix: If the panels are already folded and misaligned, you cannot un-crease them. Use a sharp utility knife guided by a steel ruler to trim a tiny fraction (less than 1/32 inch) from the top or bottom edges of the collapsed book block to square the unit. For future builds, always use a continuous metal ruler and mark all intervals from the left edge without moving the ruler.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best paper weight for making an accordion booklet?

An archival text or printmaking paper weighing between 120 and 170 GSM offers the ideal balance of flexibility and strength. It scores cleanly without cracking and holds enough structural rigidity to stand unsupported when opened for display.

Can I join multiple sheets of paper to make a longer accordion booklet?

Yes, you can join multiple strips of paper together by cutting a 0.5-inch gluing tab at the end of your paper strips. Shave down the edge of the tab with a fine sanding block or paring knife to reduce bulk, apply a thin layer of PVA glue, and adhere it to the next strip, aligning the seam precisely with an inner valley fold to keep it hidden.

Why do my covers bend warp when I glue the pages to them?

When wet PVA glue dries, it shrinks and exerts a strong inward pull on the board. To prevent warping, you must ensure that your cover board grain runs vertically, use PVA glue sparingly, and immediately dry the assembled booklet under a heavy weight to compress the fibers during the curing process.

Do I have to use a bone folder to crease the paper?

While you can use your fingernails or the edge of a plastic ruler, a genuine bone or Teflon folder is highly recommended. It applies concentrated, even pressure without scratching, ripping, or shining the surface of the paper, resulting in crisp, professional-grade book joints.

Elevate Your Bookbinding Craft

Now that you have mastered the foundational mechanics of concertina binding, you can experiment with pocket inserts, die-cut windows, and structural hybrid book designs. Equip yourself with premium bookbinding supplies and archival tools to bring your next creative portfolio or artist book to life with gallery-grade execution.